This is the wing core and the EPP elevons.

Different view same plane.

I like to angle the wing for looks and to increase the roll rate. It flies well either way. Cutting the trailing edge decreases the wingspan.

To angle the wing you need to trim an equal matching amount off of both wings. In the planes in the video we trimmed 3" off of each trailing edge making the plane a 30" wingspan.

If you want to sweep the wing use a box knife, trim in several strokes, making sure to keep the knife vertical from the pont of the nose to your mark on the trailing edge.

EPP foam cuts easily with a sharp razor knife or razor blade. Use a metal straight edge.

These are the pieces after the cuts showing the foam pieces we removed.

I glued the pieces together to show the amount of foam being removed from the center of the wing.

With the pieces gone this is the new look of the wing. Notice the angle on the trailing edge and the increased sweep angle on the nose. The planes in the videos are cut at this angle.

Cutting the elevons. This shows trimming the EPP foam elevons to match the size of the wing.

You can also trim the tips of the wings to any angle. Only recently have we left them without trimming. Wing cores are ready to glue and put in the shock cord.

You will get a 6" x 8" inch piece of foam to cut how ever you want to make your fin or fins or whatever.

Here are some examples of different fins we cut just to see what we could do.

Cut the fins out with a new razor blade or box knife.

Glue the two halves together using a hot glue gun on low temperature

Line them up and hold them until the glue cools. It takes a minute or two to cool because the foam is a great insulator.

Using a sharp new razor blade cut a slit the entire way around the wing to insert the shock cord.

Follow the edge of the wing.

Insert the string into the slit and work it around the plane. It is easier if you use a small phillips screwdriver to push the cord into the slit.

The string is totally buried in the EPP foam.

After you have gone the entire way around the plane, pull on the ends to tighten the string to put tension around the wing.

CA glue the string in place with regular liquid CA glue. It will take a while to cure because the EPP blocks much of the air to the string.

On the TOP of the wing ..... Put marks at 4" and 8" form the nose of the plane.

Draw cutouts to match the battery and radio you are planning on using. We are using a 1300 mA 3S lipoly.

Draw the motor cut out 1" wider than the prop you are planning on using.

The motor cut out is 2" deep and 8" wide for the recommended 7x6 propeller.

Draw servos cut outs and radio slot for ESC and Rx. We are using HS82MG servos for combat and a Spektrum 6100e receiver with a 20A SS ESC.

Installing the 20" carbon spar ON THE BOTTOM of the delta. We put it along the line between the tips of the wing. If you leave the wing straight put the spar about 4" from the trailing edge of the wing.

Using a new sharp razor blade cut a slit the length of the 20" spar.

Press the spar into the slot.

Make sure the spar is below the level of the foam.

We cut the fins and pinned them in place to see if we like the look. We recommend ou cut them out of paper first.

You can use a box knife or a soldering iron to cut out the battery and radio and motor slots.

Notice the motor cut out and the wood motor mount block.

We are now going to trim the sharp edge of the motor/propeller slot to decrease drag and noise. It will be trimmed top and bottom and front and rear with either a box knife or soldering iron.

You can see the knife cutting the foam at a 45 degree angle along the metal straight edge. The picture can be enlarged by clicking the mouse on it.

This is cutting the same angle with soldering iron and a metal straight edge.

This is the finished angle cut at the rear of the prop cut out.

This is the angle at the front of the prop cut out.

Install the control horn in an EPP elevon. Elevons must be stiffened with laminate or bidirectional tape. Cut slit with Exacto knife.

Press horn into slot. Note the bidirectional tape

CA glue horn in place.

Put a 1" ring of hot glue on the top and the bottom of the elevon around the horn. This is the fastest installation of a horn I have ever done.

Look at the radio set up. Notice battery, ESC, receiver, Velcro, servos, pushrods, rod stabilizer horns, elevons and horns. You can mouse click on image to enlarge.

Close up of radio and motor set up. Notice the slits where the servo wires go to the receiver. Notice motor mounting and motor wires and plug.

This horn stabilizes the middle of the pushrod. It is installed the same way as the pushrod in the elevon. It is hard to see in the wide screen shot.

This is an easy connector on an elevon horn. It can also be put on the servo arm if you prefer.

The laminate comes in rolls with no backing. It will stick without 3M77 or 3M90. The rough side goes against the foam.

Cut pieces to cover both front and back.

Lay the laminate over the foam.

Iron it down with a hot iron. Do some testing on some of the scrap. If the iron is too hot it may change the shape of the foam

Laminate does not shrink as much as Ultracoat but it is still as easy to apply. Work from the leading edge of the wing back.

The laminate also sticks well to itself and makes the wing water resistant. You can tell this is the back side of the wing by looking at the carbon spar.

Smooth out the wrinkles gently and you have tough light covering.

This is the laminate before ironing.

This is the laminate after ironing. I used a razor blade to spilt the laminate and wrap the edges inside the motor cut out area.

I used 2 layers of 3 mm laminate for the elevons.

All sides of the elevon need to be covered to make it stiff enough to work. Some fliers have used coroplast that can be purchased at Wal-mart in the make your own sign department.

The epp foam elevon is a little more flexible and holds up better in combat. The hinge line is also stronger because the wing and the elevon bend together.

I like holographic tape for trim. It adds a lot of color and looks professional with minimal effort. A link to the tape can be found on our beginners shopping list in post #1.

Notice how the light makes the lenses of the tape refract the light.

Plane ready to fly on the day of it's maiden flight.

Notice the difference the tape makes. It turns this .....................

................ into this in 10 minutes. Notice the 4.5 oz of lead it took to balance the plane with the rear mounted motor. The mid motor didn't need any added weight.

This shows the set up for the rear mounted motor.

This is showing the mid and rear prop configurations.