Exploded view of 1.9lb EPP wing parts. The elevator is split if you want to try elevons and glues together easily if you want the standard rudder, elevator throttle controls.

Here are your 1.9lb EPP floats, motor/radio pod, rudder. I left the rudder square but it can be shaped any way you would like. Extensive testing has gone into the float and motor pod design.

This is the included hardware including a 2 piece motor mount with nut and screw. 2 Push rods. 2 horns and 2 wire guides and we now have 2x 4mm 12" carbon tubes.

You can use many light weight radio components. I am using the radio shown. 1300 mA 3s, 20C, lipo battery, 20+A ESC, receiver, 2x light servos.

Here are two motors we have tried. On the left the FC28-12. On the right the BP-21. Both come with back plates that easily screw or bolt to the motor mount. They each will draw 15+ amps with a 7x6 prop and 3s lipo battery.

This shows a mounted motor with a prop saver and a 7x6 prop.

The kit is white EPP foam. I recommend the hot glue gun on a low temp setting. The Gorilla Glue or Shoe Goo work but take more time. Do not use hot glue on black foam or if you paint the plane a dark color or it will get soft in the sun.

All EPP foam will have melt strings from the cutter. These planes are cut with a hot wire. Rub EPP foam parts together to remove most of the the fibers and pick the rest off with your finger nail.

We like the shorter motor pod foam block, The motor mount made the plane look better and easier to build. The foam block is cut with a positive 5 degrees of thrust.

Plan the best location of radio gear, making sure all wires will reach, and that the plane balances at 6" back, and trace your battery, ESC and receiver.

Use a razor knife as shown or a razor blade and cut the EPP with a sawing motion. Don't over cut.

The battery, ESC and receiver need to be snug so they won't fall out. We have seen a battery fly out in a snap roll. If the battery is too loose put a rubber band around it to help it stay in.

Cut out the ESC and the receiver slots also using the same method. I put my receiver behind the ESC to make sure the motor wires and the servo wires will reach.

Glue in the motor mount.

Make sure it has the positive 5 degrees thrust. Make sure the motor mount nut and bolt are tightened so they can't come apart in flight.

Identify the parts of the wing. The angles are already be cut. The elevator is in two pieces with a bevel on the edge touching the wing. This may be the time to paint or decorate the plane. It's easier to work with when it is flat.

Glue the center section together making sure that both bevels are up and the elevator bevel is down. Make sure the carbon tube slot is aligned.

Hold it tightly till the glue cools or sets. I often build on cardboard and pin the wing down while the glue cures or cools. This may be the best time to glue in the carbon tube.

Glue on the wing tips. Make sure the bottom of the wing tip is elevated 3". Align the front of the wing.

It is important to have both wing tips at the same angle.

I like to put a small bead of glue down the joint, top and bottom, to fill in any gaps. This adds strength and is recommended to decrease the flex in the wing. Keep it light!!!

Spread the glue with your finger or if you are using hot glue use a glue stick.

The kit has been upgraded to have 2 carbon tubes rather than one. The 4mm carbon tubes are glued into the slots on the bottom of the wing.

The carbon tubes are the reinforcement for the floats and helps to support the weight of the motor battery and radio.

This is what the wing should look like with the center and tips glued on and the carbon tube glued in.

Glue the two halves of the elevator together. The elevator is cut this way to make it easier to cut the bevel for the hinge line. It also makes it possible to have elevons on the plane but you will be amazed and with the rudder elevator throttle set up.

Make sure the bevels match. You might need to trim the ends to give clearance for the rudder to move up and down without rubbing the wingtips.

Position the bevel on the bottom of both the wing and the elevon so it will be able to move once it is glued. Trim the ends as needed so there is plenty of clearance with the wing. Put a bead of glue on the top down the hinge line.....

....then scrape it with a razor blade. Keep the glue thin so it will bend easily. The hot glue is stronger than the foam.

The hinge is only a thin layer of glue. This is the easiest and fastest hinge system I have ever used. Try it you will like it!!!

It bends well as long as you don't use too much glue. IF you have some binding fold the elevator up and clean out the hinge line.

To make a hinge on the rudder. Take the two rudder pieces and set them up as shown.

Notice that the rudder is pinned to the cardboard to keep it from slipping. Apply a small bead of glue.....

...and scrape it with a razor blade.

It bends easily both directions.

The angles give it room to bend the other direction. You can customize the rudder shape to make it your own.

Align the motor pod with the center line of the wing and glue it down. I actually used Gorilla Glue because of the black foam.

The rudder also is positioned down the center line of the wing. Make sure it is far enough forward to not interfere with the elevator.

If you are only going to fly off grass tape works well but pop bottle is much slicker. I have also tried milk jug and Formica. I hot glue the tape down to make it stick to the EPP.

If you want to use a milk jug. The flat piece of plastic goes around the side of the jug where the label is. You may also choose to use Formica if you have it available.

This is a standard soda bottle. It is very lightweight, easy to cut, an nearly invisible on the plane.

I cut off the ends of the pop bottle and used them to experiment with the glue gun to see how much heat the pop bottle can take before it starts to melt. The trick is to get the glue the right temperature before putting the plastic skid on.

I cut the seam in the center section to get it to lay flat.

I cut strips the same width as the floats.

The white plastic is milk carton the green plastic is from a soda pop bottle.

I put low temperature hot glue on the float bottom.

Then spread the glue with a tongue blade making sure the surface had a lightweight thin coat of glue. Test the plastic before doing this to make sure you know how much heat it can take.

With two hands carefully align and press the strip of pop bottle on the float before the glue cools. Rub it vigorously to make good contact then let cool. My other hand was taking the picture.

I trimmed the ends off the plastic. Do some experimenting before gluing. I did have to pull one of the pop bottle skids off the float because it warped when the glue was too hot. The float was OK.

You can't even see the plastic skid but it is very slick and looks good. The milk jug can take more heat but this looks better and is slicker. Formica is tougher and heavier and harder to bend around the curve.

The floats will be set back 6" form the nose of the plane or 4.5" back from the corner where they mount. I'm marking the 4.5" corner and making sure to set up both a right and left float.

The back of the float is 6" from the nose of the plane at CG. This shows the distance to mount the float on the plane. The prop should not be able to hit because the floats are protecting it.

Glue the outside of the float along the seam for the wingtip.

Float location is easier to see with the black EPP foam and a white float.

I like these simple horns and wire guides. Notice there are different sized holes in each end. I sometimes use a heavier wire when I build and so I set the horns up to give me an easy option.

To install the horns stab a hole with an Exacto hobby knife and slide them in. Make sure the hole you leave out is the one with the wire size you want to use. This is the rudder.

Do the same to install the rudder horn. Leave the horns poking through about 1/8".

Position the horns where you want them and glue both sides of each horn. Spread the glue to about a 1" circle around the horn for a tough simple to install horn. Notice the rudder and elevator horns are on opposite sides of the rudder.

Look at the 12" long push rod. The wire guide is absolutely essential to prevent the wire from bending.

This is the side view of the wire guide. The bend in the wire allows me to adjust the trim without having an adjustable connector on the end.

This is the right side wire guide to the rudder. It is the part as a control horn just positioned differently.

and the left side wire guide to the elevator.

I cut a single hole and put both servos in the same hole.

Z-bends are one way to connect to the servos if you are going to use the bent wire method for adjusting trims shown above.

These are wire links that can be purchased at the hobby shop.

Note how the wires are run through the wire guides to the rudder and elevator horns. The guides have to be glued in the wing with the push rod already through them or you won't get the pushrod.

This is the entire push rod linkage.

This shows the wiring of the battery, ESC, receiver, and servos. The motor to the ESC connection is on the other side.

This is my latest Snowball built from one of TJ's kits. Watch the videos. It's a great plane.

All up ready to fly weight is 14 oz even with the heavier glue from a hot glue gun.