Assassin/Roswell/Titan/Grim Reaper

  • Building Checklist for the
    Assassin, Roswell Delta, Titan and Grim Reaper

  • Quick links to each of the specific plane forums at
  • www.rcgroups.com
    Kits and photo instructions at
  • www.Crashtesthobby.com
    Shopping list and links:
  • These same building instructions on RC Groups
  • My thread written for beginners:
  • http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1192820

    Most Common Building Mistakes to Avoid

    1. Plane is too heavy.     Keep the planes light. A light plane needs less power to fly well and is less likely to break in an accident.
    2. Didn't do each step in the right order.     I have heard builders say they forgot steps or got the steps out of order and had to do repairs before they had even flown their planes.
    3. Plane is not balanced properly.     Flying wings fly poorly if they are tail heavy. You may have to make adjustments in the placement of your battery and radio or even add weight to get the the plane to balance on the recommended center of gravity.
    4. There is slop in the linkages and hinges.     Your linkages, hinges and servos all need to be tightly mounted and not flex under stress. Most fliers underestimate the forces on a plane in flight.
    5. Too much or too little movement in the elevons.     If the hinges are too tight the elevons won't go down far enough. Right stick elevator should move the surfaces 3/8" up or down and the aileron stick movement should also move the elevons 3/8" up or down. You will see the combined movement will be 3/4" when you move the right stick diagonally.
    6. Batteries get damaged.     Your battery may mushroom in an accident if your battery has an end or edge towards the front of the plane . You can decrease battery damage from impacts by standing the battery on it's side with the flat side of the battery forward.
    7. Plane is hard to see.     You can't fly your plane if you can't see it. You need to be able to tell top from bottom of plane. Colors need to stand out in all weather conditions. We like to add a small amount of the colored packing tape, Ultracoat or my favorites are the 163 kinds of holographic tape from http://stores.ebay.com/Paper-Street-Plastics. Link to their 14 color sample packs. http://cgi.ebay.com/Glittering-Sequin-Vinyl-SAMPLE-PACK-8-x-12-sheets_W0QQitemZ120415517075QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0952f993
    8. The plane is not strong enough resulting in flutter and control problems.     There shouldn't be empty space in the wing. The battery, servos, ESC and receiver should fill all cut out spaces tightly and become part of the solid core making the plane less likely to bend or flutter. Our "leave no holes behind" building method removes less foam so you plane is stronger, easier to build, protects the radio, and has fewer field repairs.
    9. Radio problems with programing, weak batteries and/or weak servos     . Get to know your radio. If your radio isn't working right you can't fly your plane. If your batteries can't provide enough power for the motors you are using they will last only a few flights. Broken servos are common if they don't have metal gears. We recommend the Hitec HS82MG servos.
    10. Prevent crash damage.     The shock cord ties the back of the wing together so the wing won't tear between the elevons when the plane is in a front impact. The taped EPP elevons won't tear. The laminate creates a shell on the plane that also adds a lot of strength.

    Suggested Radio

    1. This Shopping List link may help you decide what to get. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8385551&postcount=1
    2. We recommend at least a 25+ amp speed control to fly our planes with with the CF2812 motor.
    3. We recommend a 35+ amp ESC if you use the Turnigy 30-35 1700KV motor to go ballistic with the Titan and Grim Reaper, our motor mount is designed to fit this motor too.
    4. A 7x6 APC style propellor will work on either motor.
    5. We use a 1050 mA to 1350 mA 3s 30C lipoly battery with for the Assassin and Roswell on the CF2812 motor and a 1350 mA to 2200+ mA 3S 30C lipoly battery for the Titan and Grim Reaper with the 30-35 1700Kv motor.
    6. You need a radio that has mixing capabilities and adequate range.
    7. You will need two metal metal gear servos. We recommend the Hitec HS82MG. There are many cheap servos out there that will tempt you. You won't regret getting the better servos.

    Plane Specifications:

    1. The 36" Assassin has a 19" single carbon flat spar inserted from the bottom 6.25" back from the nose of the plane. The battery is back 2.5", We recommend you use a 30C 1300 3S lipoly battery, a 25A ESC, the CF2812 motor and HS82MG servos. The radio slot is back 4.5" and is 10" wide. The center of gravity is back 6.25"- 6.5". This plane usually balances without added weight if you build light. The flying weight with battery is about 17 oz.

    2. The 36" Roswell battery pack is back 3.5". If you cut the Roswell down to 30" put the battery back 4". We recommend you use a 30C 1300 3S lipoly battery, a 25A ESC, the CF28-12 motor and HS82MG servos. The radio slot is back 5.5". There is a propeller cut out in the middle of the wing is back 7.5" and is 2" deep and 8" wide with the front and back rounded to improve airflow. The center of gravity is back 8"-8.25". Try to keep the back of the plane light. It is easy to get a delta with a mid mounted motor tail heavy. The flying weight with battery is about 18 oz. The Roswell has a single 19" flat carbon spar across the center of the bottom of the wing back 12" from the nose. The Roswell does not fly well without a vertical fin but does fly well with a nose mount or a mid mount motor. The servos need to be on the sides of the motor cut out area so the pushrods can get around the propeller. Look at the Roswell thread for more information and see how I like to sweep my Roswells back by trimming the center of the core if you are a more advanced flier.

    3. The 60" Titan battery pack is back 3". We recommend you use a 25C 2200 3S lipoly battery, a 35A ESC, the Turnigy TR35-30A motor and HS82MG servos. The radio slot is back 5" and 10" wide. The center of gravity is back 8.5" from the nose of the plane. This plane usually balances without added weight if you build light. The flying weight with the bigger motor and battery is about 26 oz. The Titan has top and bottom spars that meet in the middle of the plane back 2" from the nose and end 1.5" back from the leading edge at the tip of the wing tips. The spars are positioned directly over each other for strength. The third set of spars across the middle making a shape of the letter "A". The center spars are back 6.25" and go from the left wing spars to the right wings spars and are also on both the top and bottom of the wing.

    4. The 60" Grim Reaper battery is back 4.5". We recommend you use a 25C 2200 3S lipoly battery or bigger, a 35A ESC, the Turnigy TR35-30A motor and HS82MG servos. The radio slot is back 7" and is 12" wide. The center of gravity is back 9.5". This plane is designed for heavier bigger batteries. I am using 2x 1300 3S batteries and the plane balances on CG. The flying weight with the big motor and battery is about 32 oz. The Grim Reaper has front top and bottom spars that meet in the middle of the plane back 3" from the nose and end 2" back from the leading edge at the wing tips. The spars are positioned directly over each other for strength. The cross member spars are a third set of spars across the middle making a shape of the letter "A". The cross member spars are back 9.25" from the nose of the plane and go from the left wing spars to the right wings spars. These cross member spars are also on top and bottom of the wing.

    Preparing the Core

    1. Rub the EPP cores with another piece of EPP foam to get the melt fibers off. Use your fingernail to pick off any stubborn fibers. Most imperfections in the foam will disappear when you apply the laminate.
    2. Glue the wing halves together with low temperature hot glue or Shoe Goo, Gorilla Glue. The hot glue is easiest to cut through when melting the holes for the radio and batteries.
    3. Weight is critical to the final performance. Build strong but don't add extra weight. Every added ounce decreases flight performance.
    4. Take a new razor blade and a metal straight edge and put a slight angle on the back of the wing cores so the elevons will have more room to go down before hitting the back trailing edge of the wing core.

    The Assassin and Titan Are Designed to Fly Without Fins

    1. Most combat fliers prefer to fly the Assassin and Titan without fins because fins like to get knocked off in combat.
    2. The Roswell, does not fly well without a fin or two in the center of the wing. EPP foam for fins is included in the Roswell kit. the Grim Reaper and the Scythe need wing tip fins due to their thin wings.
    3. Fins should be toed in at the front by 1/4" to 3/8" for stability.
    4. I cut up the stiffer plastic covers on 3 ring binders for fins. They are flexible enough to bend in combat but stiff enough for flight.

    Cutting the Wing Tip angles on the Assassin and Titan

    1. You need to cut the angled tip cuts before you install the spars and shock cord.
    2. Leave the forward facing cut flat so it can stabilize the plane.
    3. The Assassin tip angles are cut 2" on the leading edge and back 2" on the end of each wing.
    4. The Titan tip angles are cut 3" on the leading edge and back 2" on the end of the wing.
    5. Draw a line to guide the cut.
    6. Use several vertical strokes with a sharp razor blade or box knife and a metal straight edge to cut away the foam wing tip.

    The Flat Carbon and Fiberglass Spars

    1. We have one flat carbon spar in the Assassin, Roswell and Scythe kits.
    2. We have six fiberglass 1/8" spars in the Titan and Grim Reaper kits.
    3. The spars add compression strength     to the EPP foam wing cores. The spars work with the shock cord, fiber tape and laminate to create the combat strength of the planes.
    4. Carbon fiber flat spars     are very strong in one direction and flexible in the other. They are the easiest to install. This makes them a good choice for a lightweight single spar in light planes like the Assassin and Roswell.
    5. Fiberglass round rods     are strong and flexible. They are installed on both the top and bottom of the wing and work together to make the wing stiff enough for combat.

    How to Install the Spars

    1. If you are using flat carbon spars,     find the proper spar position and cut a slit with a razor blade and a metal straight edge. The location of the spars varies by model. You can either work some baking soda into the slot then press the carbon spar in the slit and CA glue it in place with thin to medium viscosity CA glue or you can work 3M77 or 3M90 spray adhesive with a wire or into the slot also spray the flat carbon spar before sliding it into the slit. Give it time to dry.
    2. If you are using round fiberglass spars or round carbon tubes or rods     , get a metal straight edge that won't melt and use a 30W-40W soldering iron. Round the tip of the soldering iron with a grinder or side cutters so it is the rounded shape of the spar. You can either cut the soldering tip to the length you want or get a wheel collar at the local hobby store and slide it up the tip and tighten it to set the depth of the cut you would like to make. When cutting the spar slot make sure you slide the wheel collar on the top of the metal straight edge not the side to get the proper depth. Be patient and let the soldering iron melt it's way though the foam. I like to use pins to hold the straight edge so it won't slip during the cut. You can glue round spars in with a low temperature hot glue gun, Shoe Goo or Gorilla Glue.

    Tie the Front Spars Together on the Titan and Grim Reaper

    1.     The front spars come together at an angle in the middle of the plane. The front spars in the right and left wing halves need to be tied together on the top and the bottom in the middle of the wing to keep them from separating during higher "G" force maneuvers.
    2. Prior to gluing in the spars into the foam, put two 6" strands of the shock cord material across the center line of the wing halves in the spar slot to tie the two wing halves together.
    3. Bend two 6" wires (one for the top of the wing and one for the bottom) to match the spar angles, press them into the spar slots and glue them in with the spars. The wires are more rigid than the shock cord and add to the strength the shock cord provides.
    4. The top and bottom center spars work together to create strength. across the middle of the plane. They also need to be positioned directly over each other. They need to be fitted tightly to the front spar system top and bottom and some recommend tying them to the front spars with small pieces of the shock cord.
    5. After the spars are in place and the glue has cooled, cured or dried, bend the wing and see if it is strong enough to not flutter in flight.
    6. The wing will be stronger and flex less after the tape, laminate and elevons are installed.

    The Shock Cord

    1. The shock cord spreads out the tearing force from a forward impact and strengthens the back of the plane in the weak area between the elevons.
    2. Install the spars before the shock cord so the shock cord is not melted or cut during building.
    3. Cut a 1/4" deep slit around the entire perimeter (on the side) of the wing with a sharp razor blade to install the shock cord.
    4. Start at the nose of the plane and use a Phillips screwdriver to guide the shock cord into the slit the entire way around the plane in one piece.
    5. Tighten the shock cord gently so it has tension or it won't work. Tie the shock cord securely at the nose of the plane.
    6. Make sure that the trailing edge of the wing is still straight along the elevon line. Straighten the wing BEFORE you glue in the shock cord.
    7. If you are using CA glue to secure the shock cord, put baking soda in the slot to speed up the curing of the CA glue. Have adequate ventilation and beware of the fumes.
    8. If you are using Gorilla glue, lightly moisten the slot with a spray bottle or wet rag prior to gluing and be careful to plan for the expansion of the Gorilla Glue as it cures.

    Our Custom 16 Gauge Stainless Steel Motor Mount

    1. CTHobby kits come with a 16 gauge stainless steel motor mount that is held in alignment with a Formica square that is glued to the EPP wing. This motor mount has slots that can adjust to many motors where the mounting screws are in a straight line. We use two screws secured with Lock Tite to hold the motor in place. Since it is a pusher prop we haven't had problems with the motor coming loose if it is installed correctly.
    2. After the Formica is glued in place, the stainless steel motor mount can be screwed, taped or glued or any combination of these methods to the Formica.
    3. The Assassin and Roswell use one 3" square Formica plate on the bottom of the wing. The Titan and the Grim Reaper use two Formica plates with one top and bottom of the back of the center of the wing like a clam shell.
    4. The 3"x3" Formica is glued on the bottom, center trailing edge of the wing on the Assassin . It is glued slightly hanging over the angle so the stainless steel motor mount isn't resting on the foam. Use a low temperature glue gun or Gorilla Glue. Make sure the Formica plate and motor mount don't damage your shock cord. If the hot glue cools on the Formica before it sticks well to the foam you can heat the Formica back up with an iron and you will be able to adjust the position. Be careful not to melt the foam around the Formica.
    5. Glue the bottom 3"x3" Formica on the Titan and the Grim Reaper the same way as the Assassin then glue the top Formica piece so lines up directly over the bottom piece. Both top and bottom Formica squares should be glued over the A-frame spars for strength. Some fliers run bolts through both top and bottom Formica pieces for added strength.
    6.     The Formica plate on the Roswell is in front of the prop cut out and goes under the radio slot. The motor connects to it the same was as on the flying wings. Some builders have put a wood plate in behind the motor and left out the Formica and the metal motor mount to save weight.

    Extreme Tape is a Bidirectional Fiber Tape That Adds Incredible Strength For It's Weight     .

    1. Scotch Extreme tape will stick to EPP without a spray adhesive.
    2. It is lighter weight than many other reinforced tapes.
    3. It is available at many office supply and hardware stores and on-line.
    4. It needs to be covered with a laminate or over time it will yellow and dry and come off in UV light.
    5. I have never seen an EPP taped elevon tear.
    6. The weakest place on a flying wing is along the trailing edge between the elevons. Tape along the trailing edge of the wing in either a pattern that crosses on the motor mount or as close to the trailing edge of the wing as possible. Be careful not to add unnecessary weight behind the center of gravity.
    7. Put a strip of Extreme tape centered over each spar top and bottom on the wing and extend it around the ends of the wing to make sure it can't release under stress.
    8. On lighter planes I cut the tape down to 1" wide to save weight.
    9. Tape the entire leading edge tip to tip.

    EPP Elevons Are Stronger Than Balsa and Tape Hinges are Less Likely to Tear in an Accident

    1. Cut the elevons to length     making sure you cut both a right and a left elevon.
    2. Match the elevons up to the wing with the top of the elevon touching the wing and the bevel on the bottom.
    3. Cut them to the final shape you want before taping them.
    4. Leave 1/2" clearance on each side of the propeller.
    5. The Scotch Extreme Tape will stick to the EPP foam without a spray adhesive.
    6. Carefully put a single layer of reinforced tape on the elevons that goes the entire way around the elevons.
    7. Put a layer of the 3 mil laminating film over the reinforced tape. The laminate protects the tape from drying out and the UV light that discolors it.
    8. Don't make the plane tail heavy with too much tape behind the center of gravity.

    The Laminate Adds Strength and Protects Tape From UV Light, Dirt and Water

    1. The laminate is stronger than most iron on coverings and is easier to work with.
    2. Laminate does not need a spray adhesive to get it to stick to EPP foam.
    3. Laminate is crystal clear and is easily decorated with colored packing tape, holographic tape or other iron on coverings like Ultracoat.
    4. Carefully cut the 4 large laminate pieces you will need for the top and bottom of the wing.
    5. Cut right and left top pieces and right and left bottom pieces 4" bigger than the wing half to be covered.
    6. The rough side of the laminate goes against the foam.
    7. The laminate can handle more heat than the EPP so test your iron on a piece of scrap EPP foam to make sure it isn't so hot it will change the shape of the EPP wing or elevons.
    8. After the laminate is ironed on the foam it will be crystal clear and you won't be able to see the seams.
    9. Cover the bottom first.
    10. Leave one inch of laminate behind the wing to wrap the trailing edge. Overlap the laminate in the middle of the cores at least 2" to add strength.
    11. Wrap the laminate around the leading edge 2" so there is a double layer of laminate on the leading edge of the wing after both the top and bottom are covered.
    12. Lay the laminate in the position you want it and stick the laminate down with one pass of the iron down the middle of the wing along the reinforced tape over the spar.
    13. Work from the middle of the wing to the edge of the wing in short strokes of the iron to get the wrinkles out of the laminate. Wrap and seal it around the edges of the wing.

    Hinging the Elevons Using the Bidirectional Tape and Laminate

    1. Cut a piece of Extreme Tape 1" wide and the length of the elevon .
    2. Stick 1/2" along top front of the elevon with half of the tape hanging over the hinge line.
    3. Move the elevon to the wing and carefully position it so the rest of the tape sticks to the laminate on the top back of the wing.
    4. If you have help you may want to have someone hold the elevon in position as you center the 1" tape down the hinge line.
    5. Fold the elevon up on the top of the wing and put the other half of the tape along the hinge line on the bottom side of the wing along the hinge line.
    6. The Extreme tape will dry out if it doesn't have laminate over it so it needs to be protected with the laminate.
    7. Cut a 2" wide piece of laminate and iron it overlapping the Extreme Tape hinge both on the top and bottom of the wing.
    8. Repeat on the other elevon.

    Installing the Radio

    1. I like to cover the wing with laminate (after spars, shock cord and reinforced tape) before making the cut outs for the battery and radio. This method is faster and stronger and easier to build and repair than any other building method I have found.
    2. Some of our customers still like to bury the battery, radio, servos, push rods and wires in the foam and put hatches over the openings. You choose but make sure your radio is mounted so there is no play in the servo linkages.
    3. The wing is stronger if there is no empty space in the wing.
    4. We put the battery in it's own cutout.
    5. Mount the rest of the radio in a single slot that is wide enough for the ESC and wires and long enough to reach between the control horns on the elevons.
    6. You may have to cut out more foam to fit your specific receiver and servos.
    7. I cut the battery hole and the radio slot with a metal straight edge and a soldering iron or a box knife or both to get the cut outs the right shape and depth. Don't cut through the laminate on the bottom of the wing. I pull the cut pieces of foam out with needle nose pliers.
    8. Your radio and battery needs to be installed around the spars, motor mount and elevons.
    9. Roughly calculate where the center of gravity needs to be. You may be able to make adjustments to the placement of the radio to keep added weight to a minimum.
    10. You will be cutting holes in some pieces of the reinforced tape but don't cut through spars or make major cuts in the tape that will weaken the wing.
    11. Cut a deep hole for the battery that allows the battery to stand on it's side with side of the battery facing the front of the plane.
    12. Mount the battery with the flat side forward. If you put the end or edge of the battery to the front it will mushroom the battery if you have an accident.
    13. On the planes that have the A-fram spar system I like my battery behind the spars to protect it but as far forward as I can place to help balance the plane.
    14. Find a place for the battery that is not directly against the spar so the battery won't be damaged and won't break the spars in an accident.
    15. Cut a deep 3/16" wide slot in front of the motor that reaches as wide as the horns on the elevons.
    16. Cut the slot to fit a servo at each end and the receiver and speed control in the slot between the servos.
    17. Press the servos deep into the wing. The servo arms should be as close to the top of the wing as possible with just enough room for the control rod to be underneath.
    18. Cut a 1" slit through the laminate at the front of the battery slot and in the middle of the radio slot that is just big enough for a loop of Velcro to hold your radio in the plane. Velcro can be purchased at hardware stores and clothing stores.
    19. With the servos in place hot glue the tops and ends of the servos until they cannot move.
    20. After getting the radio programed and the servo direction confirmed
    21. Press all extra servo and ESC wires into the slot.
    22. Put a piece of tape over or glue the ESC and receiver in place.
    23. I like to try to leave a little air space around the center of the ESC to dissipate heat.
    24. Put a small piece of clear tape over the receiver and ESC to hold them in place.

    Horns in the EPP Elevons

    1. Take a straight edge and line up the servo horns with the elevons in as straight of a line as possible to make the location for the conrol horn.
    2. The horn should point directly at the servo and the front of the horn should line up with the hinge line. Both horns need to be positioned the same.
    3. Draw a line from the servo arm hole you will use to the horn location on the elevon. Don't forget you will have an EZ connector on the horn.
    4. You want your push rod to stay straight or it may bind or flex in flight.
    5. Take an Exacto or hobby knife and stab a slit clear thought the elevon where you want the horn to be. We slightly enlarge the hole to get more glue against the horn.
    6. We do not use the extra base that is attached to the horn in the kit.
    7. Push the horn up from the bottom though the hole and double check it's position with the push rods before gluing.
    8. Using hot glue, Gorilla Glue, or thick CA glue glue the horn in the slit and the base of the horn against the bottom of the elevon.
    9. Put a small amount of glue around the horn on the top of the elevon to add strength.

    Push Rods Should Not Flex

    1. Put an EZ connector in the top hole on the horn and use the plastic snap to secure it in place and screw the adjustment screw into the end.
    2. Remove arm on the servo so the pushrod can installed under the servo arm to keep it closer to the wing.
    3. Z-bend the end of the wire put a 2" piece of the plastic wire guide or straw on the wire and insert it though the EZ connector.
    4. Turn your radio on and set it for elevons and zero the trims.
    5. Insert the z-bend up though the servo arm put the red wire guide on the wire and run the wire back though the EZ connector. Put the servo arm back in proper position on the servo.
    6. The best position for the servo arm is two teeth forward of center. The servo arm is pointed slightly towards the front of the plane so the elevon moves down more than up so the plane will have more axle rolls.
    7. Screw the servo arm back down on the servo.
    8. Align the bottom of the elevon with the bottom angle of the wing and tighten the EZ connector.
    9. After wire position is determined, glue the wire guide to the laminate so the push rod moves freely though the guide but cannot flex.
    10. Triple check that the elevons are moving the right directions in response to transmitter commands. These controls are set in the V-tail or delta or radio mixing functions on the transmitter. The elevon servos plug into the aileron and elevator plugs on the receiver. You may need to play with the servo reversing switches and trade which receiver plugs the servos are plugged into to get it to work.
    **L stick forward - increase throttle, L stick back - throttle decrease
    **L stick to L/R only for planes with working rudder. rudder goes same direction as stick when standing behind the plane.
    **R stick forward - elevons both go down 3/8", R stick back - both elevons go up 3/8"
    **R stick R - R elevon goes up 3/8" and L elevon goes down 3/8", R stick L - L elevon up 3/8" and R elevon down 3/8"

    Flight Testing

    1. We recommend you get some RC simulator time to get used to the controls if you are new.
    2. If you are a new flyer have someone who flies well check your plane and radio before your first flight .
    2. It is important to have colored tape or paint on the wing to help you stay oriented with your wing in the air.
    3. Before flying check the: range, transmitter battery, motor direction, servo direction, amount of throw, no slop in the pushrods and center of gravity prior to launching.
    4. Toss the plane into the wind aimed at the horizon and hit the throttle when it is clear of your hand so you don't stall on take off.
    5. Our EPP wings are designed to be abused. Go have some fun!!!!
    6. I'm more worried about the safety of spectators than the durability of our flying wings. Be safety minded.

    Lee

  • Name: Foam Cutting 9-08 033.jpg Views: 254 Size: 235.5 KB Description: Cutting foam with a hot wire leaves some melt fibers on the foam. I put the white fibers on black foam so you can see it. These are normal. Cutting foam with a hot wire leaves some melt fibers on the foam. I put the white fibers on black foam so you can see it. These are normal.

  • Name: Foam Cutting 9-08 032.jpg Views: 205 Size: 122.1 KB Description: Rub two of the EPP parts together to remove the fibers off of the wing and elevator cores and use your finger nail to pick of any that remain. Rub two of the EPP parts together to remove the fibers off of the wing and elevator cores and use your finger nail to pick of any that remain.

  • Name: 065.jpg Views: 356 Size: 48.2 KB Description: These are the EPP parts of the EPP Pinata. The wing is solid 1.3 lb EPP foam and the elevons are 1.9 lb EPP.The wing tip and elevon angle still need to be cut. These are the EPP parts of the EPP Pinata. The wing is solid 1.3 lb EPP foam and the elevons are 1.9 lb EPP.The wing tip and elevon angle still need to be cut.

  • Name: 005.jpg Views: 389 Size: 72.1 KB Description: Using a hot glue gun with on a low temp setting with multi temp glue sticks, glue the two wing halves together. Using a hot glue gun with on a low temp setting with multi temp glue sticks, glue the two wing halves together.

  • Name: 006.jpg Views: 342 Size: 47.1 KB Description: The foam insulates the glue so it takes longer to cool. Hold in place until cool. The foam insulates the glue so it takes longer to cool. Hold in place until cool.

  • Name: 001.jpg Views: 338 Size: 78.6 KB Description: This is the Assassin Core and elevon design. The wing is glued together the wing angle cut and the elevons are taped. This is the Assassin Core and elevon design. The wing is glued together the wing angle cut and the elevons are taped.

  • Name: 008.jpg Views: 322 Size: 68.3 KB Description: We leave the tips on because some people want fins. They are easy to trim off. Measure 2 We leave the tips on because some people want fins. They are easy to trim off. Measure 2" along the front.

  • Name: 009.jpg Views: 306 Size: 53.4 KB Description: Measure 2 Measure 2" back on the tip and draw a line. Make sure right and left wingtips are the same.

  • Name: 011.jpg Views: 319 Size: 69.2 KB Description: Use a new razor blade of box knife and make several strokes to cut the tip off at 90 degrees to the table. A dull blade will rip the foam not cut it cleanly. Use a new razor blade of box knife and make several strokes to cut the tip off at 90 degrees to the table. A dull blade will rip the foam not cut it cleanly.

  • Name: 002.jpg Views: 325 Size: 93.2 KB Description: It will look like this. Sorry about the ink. The picture wasn't clear without it. It will look like this. Sorry about the ink. The picture wasn't clear without it.

  • Name: 005.jpg Views: 332 Size: 74.9 KB Description: This is what the wind sees. The tip creates drag that stabilizes the plane. It doesn't decrease lift or control. It seems to improve it!!! This is what the wind sees. The tip creates drag that stabilizes the plane. It doesn't decrease lift or control. It seems to improve it!!!

  • Name: 017.jpg Views: 339 Size: 27.6 KB Description: The elevon comes with the bevel cut but not the length. Different flyers want to use different props so we left enough elevon for you to decide how long to make them. The elevon comes with the bevel cut but not the length. Different flyers want to use different props so we left enough elevon for you to decide how long to make them.

  • Name: 006.jpg Views: 350 Size: 96.1 KB Description: These are the elevons. They have been taped on all sides with bidirectional tape to make them ridged enough to work. make sure you make a right and left elevon. These are the elevons. They have been taped on all sides with bidirectional tape to make them ridged enough to work. make sure you make a right and left elevon.

  • Name: 007.jpg Views: 339 Size: 88.4 KB Description: They are still flexible but do the job well. It's kinda obvious why they don't break in combat. They are still flexible but do the job well. It's kinda obvious why they don't break in combat.

  • Name: 003.jpg Views: 316 Size: 79.1 KB Description: The tip is trimmed and the elevon has been trimmed and taped. The tip is trimmed and the elevon has been trimmed and taped.

  • Name: 012.jpg Views: 343 Size: 51.0 KB Description: This is a pattern drawn on the wing for the cut outs for the battery and the slot for the servos, ESC and receiver. This is a pattern drawn on the wing for the cut outs for the battery and the slot for the servos, ESC and receiver.

  • Name: 013.jpg Views: 348 Size: 67.5 KB Description: We recommend the battery to be installed back 2.5 We recommend the battery to be installed back 2.5" and the slot cut back 4.5".

  • Name: 014.jpg Views: 315 Size: 67.7 KB Description: The battery slot should be smaller than the battery so it has to be wedged into the hole. I then tape or Velcro the battery to hold it in. The battery slot should be smaller than the battery so it has to be wedged into the hole. I then tape or Velcro the battery to hold it in.

  • Name: 049.jpg Views: 326 Size: 74.8 KB Description: I cut the slot with the soldering iron. I cut the slot with the soldering iron.

  • Name: 015.jpg Views: 326 Size: 62.5 KB Description: The radio slot is 9 The radio slot is 9" long and servo holes cut at each end. This has been cut with a soldering iron.

  • Name: 053.jpg Views: 340 Size: 56.2 KB Description: I like to cut with a soldering iron and a jig but a box knife or sharp kitchen knife will do. I like to cut with a soldering iron and a jig but a box knife or sharp kitchen knife will do.

  • Name: 050.jpg Views: 325 Size: 67.8 KB Description: I cut a servo hole on each end of the slot in line with the slot. All wires run down the slot. I cut a servo hole on each end of the slot in line with the slot. All wires run down the slot.

  • Name: 021.jpg Views: 338 Size: 50.3 KB Description: I cut the battery hole all the way through on this plane. I allows me to get the battery out without pulling on the wires. Tape will cover the bottom. I cut the battery hole all the way through on this plane. I allows me to get the battery out without pulling on the wires. Tape will cover the bottom.

  • Name: 016.jpg Views: 326 Size: 55.0 KB Description: Looks Great!!!! Looks Great!!!!

  • Name: 018.jpg Views: 356 Size: 68.1 KB Description: We are now going to install the carbon spar and the Formica motor plate that keeps the motor in proper alignment. We are now going to install the carbon spar and the Formica motor plate that keeps the motor in proper alignment.

  • Name: 023.jpg Views: 333 Size: 61.6 KB Description: Measure back 6.5 Measure back 6.5" from the nose on the bottom of the plane and draw a line to mark the location of the carbon spar. Make sure it is a straight line and the same on both wings.

  • Name: 102.jpg Views: 309 Size: 42.4 KB Description: Make sure that the carbon spar won't interfere with your bomb drop that will be from aprox 7 Make sure that the carbon spar won't interfere with your bomb drop that will be from aprox 7" to 7.5" back. Notice the pins holding the metal yard stick in place.

  • Name: 106.jpg Views: 335 Size: 52.1 KB Description: Using a razor blade to cut a slit for the carbon spar. You do not have to remove any foam the spar will slip in without much pressure. Using a razor blade to cut a slit for the carbon spar. You do not have to remove any foam the spar will slip in without much pressure.

  • Name: 027.jpg Views: 313 Size: 39.0 KB Description: Press the carbon spar into the slit. Press the carbon spar into the slit.

  • Name: 028.jpg Views: 322 Size: 41.5 KB Description: Using regular CA glue (The EPP can handle it) glue the entire length of the spar. Regular CA glue works very well on EPP. CA glue on EPP does not cure instantly and you will need to let it sit for a few minutes. Using regular CA glue (The EPP can handle it) glue the entire length of the spar. Regular CA glue works very well on EPP. CA glue on EPP does not cure instantly and you will need to let it sit for a few minutes.

  • Name: 021.jpg Views: 338 Size: 60.0 KB Description: Hot glue the Formica. The Formica a tough laminate and keep s the motor in position and ties the carbon spar to the motor mount. Hot glue the Formica. The Formica a tough laminate and keep s the motor in position and ties the carbon spar to the motor mount.

  • Name: 029.jpg Views: 319 Size: 53.4 KB Description: Press it in place and let it cool. Press it in place and let it cool.

  • Name: 019.jpg Views: 335 Size: 64.6 KB Description: The spar and the motor plate are in place and ready for taping. This carbon spar was installed in a location behind the bomb drop hole but since this time we are suggesting it be 6.5 The spar and the motor plate are in place and ready for taping. This carbon spar was installed in a location behind the bomb drop hole but since this time we are suggesting it be 6.5" back from the nose of the plane.

  • Name: 020.jpg Views: 501 Size: 64.0 KB Description: The 18 ga stainless steel motor mount is shown with a motor attached. A second motor mount is in the position it will be on the finished airplane. The motor will be taped on after the rest of the plane is finished. The 18 ga stainless steel motor mount is shown with a motor attached. A second motor mount is in the position it will be on the finished airplane. The motor will be taped on after the rest of the plane is finished.

  • Name: RC5 001.jpg Views: 283 Size: 76.5 KB Description: This nylon construction string is available at most hardware stores. It is very strong and hardly stretches. We use it to make a shock absorber around the wing. This nylon construction string is available at most hardware stores. It is very strong and hardly stretches. We use it to make a shock absorber around the wing.

  • Name: 063.jpg Views: 367 Size: 105.8 KB Description: This bidirectional reinforced tape is available at Lowes. It is enough to do 2 planes. This bidirectional reinforced tape is available at Lowes. It is enough to do 2 planes.

  • Name: 005.jpg Views: 231 Size: 116.2 KB Description:

  • Name: RC5 008.jpg Views: 253 Size: 26.7 KB Description: The bidirectinal tape sticks well without the spray adhesive. The bidirectional tape sticks well without the spray adhesive.

  • Name: RC5 009.jpg Views: 250 Size: 44.6 KB Description: We have learned to cut the tape with a razor lade rather than sissors. It is so sticky it gums up the sissors. We have learned to cut the tape with a razor lade rather than scissors. It is so sticky it gums up the scissors.

  • Name: RC5 005.jpg Views: 291 Size: 43.4 KB Description: The Velcro strap set up is to secure the battery and ESC. I make sure everything fits before starting to tape. The Velcro strap set up is to secure the battery and ESC. I make sure everything fits before starting to tape.

  • Name: RC5 006.jpg Views: 256 Size: 39.0 KB Description: This is the bottom of the plane. Cut out all of the battery and radio slots and cut the slot for the Velcro. This is the bottom of the plane. Cut out all of the battery and radio slots and cut the slot for the Velcro.

  • Name: RC5 018.jpg Views: 295 Size: 38.7 KB Description: I am going to put construction string around the perimeter of the wing. The string will spread out the forces of impact and help prevent tearing of the wing. I am going to put construction string around the perimeter of the wing. The string will spread out the forces of impact and help prevent tearing of the wing.

  • Name: RC5 011.jpg Views: 254 Size: 37.1 KB Description: Puting a piece of construction string around the wing spreads out the impact force. Use a razor blade and cut a 1/4 Puting a piece of construction string around the wing spreads out the impact force. Use a razor blade and cut a 1/4" deep slit around the wing core.

  • Name: RC5 012.jpg Views: 256 Size: 37.8 KB Description: The string will go around corners...... The string will go around corners......

  • Name: RC5 013.jpg Views: 261 Size: 35.9 KB Description: ......and across the motor mount area. ......and across the motor mount area.

  • Name: RC5 014.jpg Views: 311 Size: 31.3 KB Description: I am using the gold string so you can see it. We normally use white to better match the foam. Press the string into the slit in the foam with a small Phillips screwdriver. I am using the gold string so you can see it. We normally use white to better match the foam. Press the string into the slit in the foam with a small Phillips screwdriver.

  • Name: RC5 015.jpg Views: 284 Size: 29.1 KB Description: Put the string the entire way around the wing. Overlap it several inches and pull it tight. Put the string the entire way around the wing. Overlap it several inches and pull it tight.

  • Name: RC5 016.jpg Views: 294 Size: 38.4 KB Description: Glue the string in place. Regular fast CA glue will work on #1.3 EPP foam. Glue the string in place. Regular fast CA glue will work on #1.3 EPP foam.

  • Name: RC5 002.jpg Views: 281 Size: 66.5 KB Description: Tape the elevons on all sides with the bidirectional tape. If you don't tape all sides the elevons will not be stiff enough to control the plane. Tape the elevons on all sides with the bidirectional tape. If you don't tape all sides the elevons will not be stiff enough to control the plane.

  • Name: RC5 007.jpg Views: 286 Size: 36.4 KB Description: Tape the bottom of the wing. Go back to front so the edges are layered and don't peel back. Overlap the tape 1/4 Tape the bottom of the wing. Go back to front so the edges are layered and don't peel back. Overlap the tape 1/4". Tape over the carbon spar, Formica and battery slot but not the wing tips.

  • Name: RC5 010.jpg Views: 262 Size: 46.8 KB Description: Trim the tape at the edge. It will be covered by a piece of tape along the leading edge later. Trim the tape at the edge. It will be covered by a piece of tape along the leading edge later.

  • Name: RC5 017.jpg Views: 291 Size: 42.7 KB Description: Continue taping forward until the center of the bottom is covered. We don't tape the entire wing to save weight behind the CG. The exposed EPP wings are tough. Continue taping forward until the center of the bottom is covered. We don't tape the entire wing to save weight behind the CG. The exposed EPP wings are tough.

  • Name: RC5 019.jpg Views: 256 Size: 36.4 KB Description: Do the same thing on the top of the wing. Tape over the servo and battery openings and cut them out later. Do the same thing on the top of the wing. Tape over the servo and battery openings and cut them out later.

  • Name: RC5 020.jpg Views: 271 Size: 60.6 KB Description: The front edge of the top is taped. The front edge of the top is taped.

  • Name: RC5 024.jpg Views: 263 Size: 46.2 KB Description: Tape the trailing edge of the wing core by centering a pice of tape down the back and then wrapping it aroung the core. Tape the trailing edge of the wing core by centering a pice of tape down the back and then wrapping it aroung the core.

  • Name: RC5 023.jpg Views: 271 Size: 42.3 KB Description: This tape covers the construction string that is imbedded and glued into the wing. This tape covers the construction string that is embedded and glued into the wing.

  • Name: RC5 029.jpg Views: 262 Size: 45.5 KB Description: Wrap the corners for strength and durability. Wrap the corners for strength and durability.

  • Name: RC5 026.jpg Views: 262 Size: 35.5 KB Description: The trailing edge is now taped and a single piece of tape has been put along the entire leading edge. The trailing edge is now taped and a single piece of tape has been put along the entire leading edge.

  • Name: RC5 030.jpg Views: 243 Size: 38.0 KB Description: Slit the tape on the corners to get the tape to lay flat. Slit the tape on the corners to get the tape to lay flat.

  • Name: RC5 027.jpg Views: 261 Size: 66.5 KB Description: The tape on the leading edge will cover all of the loose ends that were made when the top and bottom of the wing were taped. The tape on the leading edge will cover all of the loose ends that were made when the top and bottom of the wing were taped.

  • Name: RC5 042.jpg Views: 271 Size: 54.0 KB Description: The weakest place on the plane is the trailing edge between the elevons. The shock string helps to reinforce this area and I also put extra tape here top and bottom. The weakest place on the plane is the trailing edge between the elevons. The shock string helps to reinforce this area and I also put extra tape here top and bottom.

  • Name: RC5 021.jpg Views: 257 Size: 50.3 KB Description: Cut out the radio and battery compartments on the top. The tape helps hold the battery in place on the bottom. Cut out the radio and battery compartments on the top. The tape helps hold the battery in place on the bottom.

  • Name: RC5 031.jpg Views: 265 Size: 46.6 KB Description: We are ready to attach the elevons. We are ready to attach the elevons.

  • Name: RC5 032.jpg Views: 251 Size: 83.9 KB Description: I hinge the elevons with a 1 I hinge the elevons with a 1" wide piece of tape on both the top and bottom of the wing. I cut the tape into 1" strips on a sheet of glass.

  • Name: RC5 033.jpg Views: 245 Size: 106.3 KB Description: Glass makes a good cutting surface for the tape and for other coverings. Glass makes a good cutting surface for the tape and for other coverings.

  • Name: RC5 034.jpg Views: 245 Size: 92.7 KB Description: Take the pice of tape and stick it along the top front edge of the elevon. Take the piece of tape and stick it along the top front edge of the elevon.

  • Name: RC5 036.jpg Views: 242 Size: 47.4 KB Description: You will be sticking tape to tape both on the elevon and on the wing core. You will be sticking tape to tape both on the elevon and on the wing core.

  • Name: RC5 037.jpg Views: 254 Size: 41.9 KB Description: Put the elevon in position and tape the hinge line leaving enough slach that the elevon has free movement. Put the elevon in position and tape the hinge line leaving enough slack that the elevon has free movement.

  • Name: RC5 039.jpg Views: 255 Size: 33.0 KB Description: fold the elevon back to tape the bottom of the hinge line. fold the elevon back to tape the bottom of the hinge line.

  • Name: RC5 040.jpg Views: 259 Size: 31.6 KB Description: Put a 1 Put a 1" piece of tape down the bottom of the hinge line. The tape will touch the hinge tape from the top of the wing making a strong hinge line.

  • Name: RC5 038.jpg Views: 254 Size: 39.5 KB Description: If you have left enough space the hinge will move freely up and down and be well secured in place. If you have left enough space the hinge will move freely up and down and be well secured in place.

  • Name: RC5 043.jpg Views: 267 Size: 40.1 KB Description: The hinge moves freely. The hinge moves freely.

  • Name: RC5 041.jpg Views: 296 Size: 37.3 KB Description: A view of the finished hinge. A view of the finished hinge.

  • Name: RC5 048.jpg Views: 275 Size: 56.9 KB Description: Iron all tape with an iron that is warm enough to heat the glue but not so hot to take the shine off the tape. Iron all tape with an iron that is warm enough to heat the glue but not so hot to take the shine off the tape.

  • Name: RC5 046.jpg Views: 244 Size: 60.3 KB Description: The iron warms the tape and increases how well it sticks. The iron warms the tape and increases how well it sticks.

  • Name: RC5 045.jpg Views: 253 Size: 54.9 KB Description: After you iron the hinge line make sure the elevon and wing are flat and straight. If not put them in the right position and warm with an iron. After you iron the hinge line make sure the elevon and wing are flat and straight. If not put them in the right position and warm with an iron.

  • Name: RC5 050.jpg Views: 254 Size: 45.7 KB Description: Use an Exacto knife to cut a slot for the control horn about 1 1/2 Use an Exacto knife to cut a slot for the control horn about 1 1/2" in from the middle of the plane.

  • Name: RC5 051.jpg Views: 272 Size: 54.4 KB Description: Slide the horn in place so that it pokes 1/8 Slide the horn in place so that it pokes 1/8 " out the back side.

  • Name: RC5 052.jpg Views: 267 Size: 43.1 KB Description: Position it so it is at 90 degrees to the elevon. Position it so it is at 90 degrees to the elevon.

  • Name: RC5 053.jpg Views: 257 Size: 60.4 KB Description: CA glue it in place. CA glue it in place.

  • Name: RC5 054.jpg Views: 267 Size: 66.1 KB Description: Use a hot glue gun to put a 1 Use a hot glue gun to put a 1" ring of hot glue around both the top and bottom of the horn. This is the strongest and easiest horn we have found on the EPP elevons.